Climbing nuts vs hexes reddit. 3” for wedgeshaped nuts and 3.
Climbing nuts vs hexes reddit First off is the rock secure than then you need to look at how well the device sits in the shape of crack. Typically you wont need them unless a route description says so. I am always placing them before my BD nuts. 6 or so alpine draws a few of your sport quickdraws, some 7mm cord to build anchors and some lockers. 5 and 5. 5->3), a set of hexes and a standard set of nuts. Set of nuts (black diamond stoppers or dmm wallnuts) possibly also a couple of individual large hexes. I own bouldering stuff (two pads); sport climbing stuff (quick draws & rope); traditional climbing gear (sets of cams, nuts, tricams, hexes); aid climbing gear (pitons, hammers, ledge, pigs, bashies, etc); alpine/ice climbing gear (ice tools, mountaineering axe, screws, snargs, crampons, deadman anchors, boots, specialized 31 votes, 43 comments. The document has moved here. The judgement we need to select a placements for Hexes and Tri cams is very similar to selecting a nut placement. A micro nut is used where no other protection will fit. 7). Tricams - useful for horizontal cracks and cheaper than regular cams. there's a lot of information in the stickied post on this sub but standard rack is doubles . 17K subscribers in the tradclimbing community. I will have lot of webbing to wrap boulders when possible. It's hard to beat a textbook hex placement, and they do not walk into a crack like a cam. I haven't used their torque nuts but I've used other companies hexes a bit. The slings make it easier to set both camming options on the hex. Apologies again for the firehose of comments, I like to nerd out about climbing nuts and hexes. I'm not terribly… My $0. At crags with splitter cracks, I obviously place more cams. You can hammer them into icy cracks. Therefore we've been thinking on buying maybe one big Hex or blue DMM's torque nut just in case we might need something so big for the route. The rest of the nuts will slide to the bottom of the carabiner as you're inserting the piece. Posted by u/[Deleted Account] - 59 votes and 44 comments To be removed from a crack, a nut will need to reverse the way it went in. Those holds (in good gyms) are moved monthly or so. Most nut placements here take offsets much better than straight ones. If you’re not climbing much above 5. if you can place a hex = elephant bomb proof! but the weight, take only what you expect to place size 3 & 6 if you have a full set of nuts. Once I started climbing on gear routes that physically challenged my climbing ability the rapid placement of a cam became welcome[1]. Don't be afraid to hit them hard with your nut tool; they're very durable. 40 votes, 28 comments. As noted by u/muenchener it might date from the late 70's but I suspect it's from earlier then that. Sep 6, 2013 · The Tricam is a puzzling piece: It’s delightfully simple, with no active—or moving—parts, yet it has more potential uses than either a spring-loaded camming device (SLCD) or a standard nut. Our climbing experts have been testing the best climbing nuts and stoppers for over 10 years and over 15 different sets. I almost always carry a single rack of nuts at least. In Valle orco, which is my go to climbing spot, thin cracks have a lot of constrictions and nuts work ok on them most of the time. People learn with nuts, thus hexes get bought as giant nuts. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. Also there has been talk about buying whole DMM torque set (4 pieces) to supplement our cams for belays, and save cams for hard climbing. Sep 15, 2014 · CGR gives the Kouba Climbing Nut Sets a full test to see if value means performance. " Apr 27, 2022 · A wave of articles followed: Robbins’ “Nuts to You” in the Californiabased climbing magazine Summit; Tom Frost’s “Preserving the Cracks” in the 1972 American Alpine Journal; and perhaps most eloquently, Doug Robinson’s “The Whole Natural Art of Protection” in one of clean climbing’s holy scripts, the 1972 Chouinard Equipment There's several reddit threads about building racks and other brand analyses. In this update, we purchased 7 of the best sets and slid them into cracks of all sizes across the United States. In the sizes that nuts are available on wire, then I think nuts are better, but if the question were hexes versus cams, when getting to say a 2. 3-1 (black->blue) weighs less than a #0. They end up being my doubles for #2, and #3 BD cams. Place the nut with the cable facing in the direction of pull if you were to take a fall, which is generally down and slightly out. The hooks on this specific vehicle are rated to 6k lbs so they’re a bit stronger than most webbing. The figure 8 is probably still good; but no one uses them anymore. Also the z4 vs regular camalot the z4s have a narrower head width. We're more used to climbing on two ropes. Anywhere they work a cam usually will too though, so i don't use them too much, just once in awhile. Quite often hexes fit where camming devices won't. They offer some camming ability in parallel cracks. 10a and you want bombproof security you’d do well to bring hexes. Posted by u/[Deleted Account] - 5 votes and 15 comments Quickdraws and slingdraws go next-from-back, my reasoning being that if I grab the wrong-length quickdraw, that's much less of a problem than grabbing the wrong size nut. Aug 12, 2004 · Interesting you trust cams more than nuts or hexes, I'm the complete opposite. The DMM ones are the best on the market right now, in my opinion. Came across these old (70s?) Chouinard nuts and hexes on Craigslist. Hexes clean as quickly as a nut that you need a nut tool to get out, often times quicker. Oct 31, 2024 · The Best Nuts and Stoppers. Cams walk and nuts can rattle loose, and you might find that one of your bomber pieces has worked itself loose (or gotten itself stuck) over the course of all your friends hangdogging a route. Write for UKC Gear Latest Gear Gear News Gear Reviews Competitions Latest Deals Product Videos Nov 23, 2016 · Hey Matt, if you are going up the learning curve in trad climbing, I highly recommend you buying hexes. Good places to stand and place and fiddle with a hex are good places to break an ankle. 1. Offset nuts are considered more of a supplement, whereas standard ones are just that: standard. it's dangerous. 5. I set my Rockcentric hexes as hard as I can and they have never rattled loose during a climb. It took me years of climbing on gear here to figure it out but they are actually useful as fuck. yosemite) then they are nice i think. You really can do almost anything on passive gear. They don’t have any moving parts. Posted by u/Cmac1625 - 73 votes and 32 comments But with that said, I wouldn’t say towhook VW climbing webbing is a clear fight. Use the side of the nut tool and smack the hex as hard as you can the opposite way it went in. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. Active pro refers mainly to cams, unless you are climbing a wide crack (called an offwidth), which might require the active pro known as a Big Bro. If you plan on getting into leading, skip these and just get a set of cams - they will be way more useful. Another upside of using strictly hexes and nuts is that if/when you decide to invest in cams you have a better understand of where works well for what kind of gear. Offset hexes were the norm when I started to climb in 1977. WC do smaller sizes I think. Folks have explained to you the nut but the wired hex is older. Just use your sport climbing rope with your friend's gear as you build your rack. “Passive pro” is a subcategory that includes climbing nuts or stoppers, hexes, and Tricams—basically anything designed to catch you by wedging itself in place in the event of a fall. Take this with a grain of salt since I’ve never been to Squamish. 5 and #0. It's kind of funny, because where I'm used to climbing in the Canadian Rockies, hexes are actually great pro for the loose blocky stuff. That being said, I love cams. There's a mostly-large-nuts krab and a mostly-small-nuts krab, with a bit of overlap between the two. you learn a lot about how the rock works, and how to find a good stance to place from. Tbh not much to choose between the two, both are great. Double up 2-7. I grew up climbing at the Lake and started off using hexes, nuts, webbing and some cordelette. Moved Permanently. BD makes the holes kind of small for this. Then you could have made the decision, informed by experience that you do not, nor will you ever need will never need hexes. Also have a few micros of offsets & stopper/rock/nuts. The hexes and stoppers are worth keeping, but not useful on a climbing wall. For a university rock climbing wall, the chalk bag should still be useful. I currently don't have any cams/nuts/hexes on my rack and would like some advice on what sizes I should get. If you plan to travel down to the gunks (worth it) buy a set of tricams (consider double pinks). I have a super standard rack, full set of WC nuts and WC cams from . Offset cams are nice for flaring pin scars-- if you climb places where this is common (e. That being said this method is not for the feint of heart. I was wondering if they're still safe considering their age. Standard nuts are the backbone of any traditional climbers rack. I'm just starting to build a rack, and wanted to get an idea of if they're still… Personally I think nuts and hexes are great, and not just for easy stuff. I would definitely double and triple up on the most commonly placed nut sizes. Micro Nuts. When I started trad climbing, I couldn't afford the cams, so I led exclusively on nuts, hexes, and tricams for probably 40 of my first 50 pitches on gear. Also hexes work much better when you are Scottish winter climbing. I did an "apprenticeship" if you will, climbing relatively short, easy routes only using hexes and wires. They can be placed passively (like a nut) or actively (like a cam), depending on the orientation and features in the rock. every area is different but that one fits a large majority of climbs. My ideal rack is probably going to be a 2-1 ratio of cams to nuts, with other gear added as needed for different climbs. I picked up a set of nuts and hexes that were mostly made by Chouinard. What Is Passive Climbing Protection? Climbing protection, or “pro” for short, is any kind of removable gear that you slot into the rock to catch a fall. These were fiddly to place for freeclimbing and tended to lift out but could still be used for aid climbing. In Kouba, we understand specific needs of every climber, that's, why we offer ten different shapes of nuts and three different types of cams. Happy Climbing! I agree. If you already have another set of hexes, you can cut the wires and resling them with >/= 5mm cord. In the end for most use cases the halfnuts are probably fine but maybe not optimal. The home of Climbing on reddit. A set from 0. Jan 8, 2024 · In the late 1980s into the 1990s in UK climbing, there was a decisive move away from a mix of individually racked hexes of all sizes & medium nuts on cord towards using only larger hexes, plus nuts on wire (with quickdraws) due to ease of use. I love my torque nuts, but in the end it's best if you're familiar with as many types of gear as possible, so collect a variety (Including hexes which many people won't/don't know how to The back story to this post is that a friend argues that a hex could be places where a cam could. Traditional climbing: use at your own risk. A single rack of . ehh sorry for the wonky formatting :/ 28 votes, 22 comments. My question is, if I’ve used all my cams earlier on a climb. I haven't used them for furniture, but they're what rock climbing gyms use to attach plastic holds to the plywood walls. 2 to 4?) and getting used to what you like and don't like before getting doubles. Learn the skills to stay safe and have confidence when climbin Moved Permanently. g. 4 to 3 Abalaks seems like a good way to expand my rack on the cheap especially on the smaller sizes of active pro. hpqeayoyecdmjypkphbwifyndiwwnqumsibzjztftdkdesgbicypcxrifefypyyryfyfja