Ball nuts climbing Aug 8, 2022 · Because nuts cost much less than cams, it’s common to double up on the small sizes of the standard nut range for gear-intensive routes. Good nut (left): securely set in a constriction, oriented downward, with full width of both sides touching. com The Virtues of Ball Nuts. . Jun 4, 2025 · What are ball nuts in climbing? Ball nuts are a rarer form of climbing protection, they aren’t passive protection because there is a trigger and camming action occurring in the device. In parallel sided cracks, these ball nuts are an excellent choice instead of pounding in a piton. Ok, you are still skeptical that these are going to be useful for you? Consider the following for Ball Nuts when compared to the popular Metolius Master Cams in comparable sizes 0 and 00: Ball Nuts… are considerably lighter; are significantly stronger; have greater size range; are much narrower and therefore fit in Apr 5, 2014 · That said, 98% of my use of them is for free climbing and there are probably aid situations where unavoidable rotation and undesirable movement can cause problems, but while the following comments apply equally to aid climbing, they are derived from decades of using and falling on them free climbing For the ball nuts you kind of have to In my experience, contact area is even more important than strength rating, let me explain this: at 5kN strength rating you would have to have a pretty severe factor >=1 fall to break the smallest micro nuts, yet I know they would not hold a 1m fall because the pressure resulting from that small force applied in a tiny area will most likely break the constriction it sits on. Plus, it’s cheaper to leave nuts behind than cams if you have to build an emergency rappel anchor. Ball nuts are a seldom used type of climbing gear which offer protection in thin cracks, filling the void where even the smallest cams are too big to fit. They are comprised of two halves: one half is a paddle and the other is a flat ball which tracks up and down a central groove on the paddle when the trigger is pulled or released. See full list on outdoorgearlab.
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